A few weeks ago I went to the London Design Biennale 2018, where installations from counties all over the world are presented and given various awards. Here are snapshots of my favourite art displays.
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Lee Bul's exhibition at the Hayward Gallery was filled with curious and interactive installations, although resitsting the temptation to touch was difficult. So many sparkly objects that draw your eye. Mirrors, gems and flickering lights. Dior debuted their new colour way for the Dior monogram. At the exhibition window in Harrods, the walls, floors and manequins were all upholstered in the sage green colour way. This is the first time customers can get a personalised service. Dior gives a complimentary monograming service if you buy their £1950 tote bags.
This collection really mirrors today's take on street style and athleisure. Vintage, yet refreshed. Heritage with a contemporary spin. The geometric shapes emphasised by the classic Adidas stripes, make the classic tracksuit intriguing and creative. The bodysuits are sporty and stylish. However, the soft textures and colours, differentiate them from the standard bodysuit that saturates the market. It's really nice to see how this project has boosted her career and enabled her to work with the brand she has been focussing her efforts on. I can't wait to see what other creative ideas she has outside of Adidas.
Fashion week comes to London, I have picked my favourite shows and pieces to show you. I really enjoyed the outfits from London's fashion week, I feel like from the shows I have seen the fashion was so much more creative and risky, and if you can't go all out for fashion week, when can you? AshishAshish has no fears when it comes to colour. His collection was inspired by a recent encounter with a floral pattern he helped produce in a textile factory in Delhi over 20 years ago. He says his designs are further inspired by Indian street style and Mexican blankets. The collection also included word play on American credit cards; 'VIVA L'Amore' , 'American Excess'. I really love the colour, more so the textures of the colours, which makes these pieces stand out from other collections. BurberryChristopher Bailey has left Burberry on a high, this rainbow filled collection, provides a large donation to charities that help LGBTQ+ rights and mental health. An adaption of the Burberry check can be seen on many items featuring the pride flag colours. I love the sweatshirts with the Google inspired Burberry logo, and the expressive patterns on the dresses and coats as it reminds me of having to create sketches in stick and ink back in Art classes. Emilio De La MorenaOverall, this collection was not my favourite. However, the looks I have selected here are my favourites as the models look cool and confident and don't let the clothes drown them out. Some of the other outfits I saw, wore the models and made them look awkward. Saying that, in response to being asked by Vogue if the outfits were a little controlling, De Le Morena replied, "My background is in sculpture and form, and today women should be free to choose any silhouette they wish." I think the sunglasses add this nonchalant vibe, the models know they look sexy and chic and don't need anyone to tell them. Christopher KaneUnfortunately the lighting from these images did not help when editing this collage, but these select pieces I thought were really beautiful. I can definitely see Bella Hadid pull of the little red dress in the middle. I'm a massive fan of the silky velvet in the electric blue and forest green. Also the suiting with the coloured sequins on puts a refreshing but subtle take on the classic suit. The theme of this show, as many of Kane's shows, was sex, inspired by the book; The Joys of Sex, creating skimpy lace garments. He even used some of the illustrators' images as prints within the collection. MM6 Maison MargielaHave we gone back to the sci-fi sixties? Maison Margiela's diffusion line have really gone all out on the silver theme, covering a London pub in tin foil. I have to say my absolute favourite thing is the disco ball suit, and skirt. The concept has been driven from Margiela's archives. I am more in love with the concept rather than the clothing itself but, fashion week is bigger than just the clothes, it's the idea and the vision, and I am really enjoying this metallic vision. Temperly LondonI love this refreshing take on the military air force uniform, it's stylish, chic, and very strong. I don't usually like it when coats and jackets are worn over shoulders without putting arms through the sleeves, but I'll make an exception because Temperly make it look powerful and cool. David KomaLast but not least, David Koma. I would wear each and everyone of these pieces. I am totally in love with this whole collection. I love the reoccurrence of the circular belts in each piece. The combination of the leather and the fur, and the studs, and the fringe is just so beautiful. I like the fact that even the dresses are brought back to this leather theme with the boots and the gloves. The outfits are just so appealing to my personal style, I want it all. He found his inspiration from "the great plains of America where he fell in love with the ornamentation of indigenous tribes." He was also inspired by Edward Curtis, "adding a sense of roots folklore to the Space Age sensibility that informs his surface decoration." All background info on the collections is from Vogue.com/fashion-shows and DeeZeen
Fashion Week has been documented all over Twitter and Instagram and its hard to resist falling in love with at least something from the collections, whether it's the clothes, the hair, the make-up or even the set, the music and lights. These are some of my favourite looks and shows from New York Fashion Week. Sies Marjan[Marcus Tondo/ Indigital.tv] Satin, fur, and ombré, oh my goodness! I think this collection is so beautiful, and is definitely one of my favourites. The purple, pink and blue lighting, helped carry this colour mood to perfection. With the collections colours ranging from soft, rosy pink to rusty oranges and browns. I really love the different tones of colour the satin gives, the dynamic of the material reflects the lights as the dress moves. the menswear featured silky corduroy shirts and trousers, my favourite being the bright red co-ord. The different textures of the satin finishes, along with the sheer organza wrapped and ruched around the body, make a perfectly elegant dress. Sies Marjan, this collection has won my heart. Pyer Moss[Yannis Vlamos/ Indigital.tv] Kerby Jean- Raymond, the designer of this collection is known for adding activism into his work. At his Fall 15 fashion show he started with a "15 minute video about police brutality and the black community", which caused him to receive death threats from the KKK. This collection takes inspiration from the wild west and current street style, combining cowboy hats and puffer coats. With this collection he is educating viewers on the existence of the black cowboy, something that has been written over by the white washed 'wild west' movies. Focussing more so on Bill Pickett, a black wild west performer. He was inspired by pictures of his clothing, by incorporating patchwork into suits, zig zag stitching. His collections have very much been unisex, although he did introduce women wear this season, but still the clothing is very much gender fluid. This collection also included a partnership with Reebok, with Kerby Jean- Raymond putting his creative genius on their classic shoe. Reasons I love this collection; the models, the hair styling, the colours and most importantly the free history lesson he gives us all. Prabal Gurung[Yannis Vlamos/ Indigital.tv] Oh so glamorous Prabal... Shiny and shimmery, sequins and velour. I love how the outfits range from using analogous colours (purple, pink and red), to complimentary colours (golden yellow and blue). The way the dresses are draped and layered to give maximum movement and intrigue when the models walk is so gorgeous. I really like the tiny details of the drawstrings used on suits and dresses. The heels of the shoes are built up with cubes and spheres, adding really interesting detailing to the boots and shoes. The pieces that impressed me the most were the bright, colourful garments, as opposed to the the greyscale outfits. Gypsy Sport[Luca Tombolini/ Indigital.tv] Diversity at its finest. Gypsy Sport is a brand to celebrate. Bringing models of all backgrounds to the runway, models included, Desmond is amazing, a 10 year-old drag queen from Brooklyn and Monroe Bergdorf, a British trans-activist. Another model to note is Diandra Forrest, the first female model with ablinism, to be signed to a modelling agency. I love that this show had no rules, no type to fit into, and achieved so much; it was raunchy, sexy, stylish, empowering, and inclusive all at the same time. Philipp Plein[Luca Tombolini/ Indigital.tv] Ski, snow, and robots?
You can definitely tell this show was inspired by Barbarella, I think the best description of this show can be found on Vogue. A combination of space, technology and snow is not your usual setting for a fashion show, but Philip Plein was here to change that. A robot accompanying Irina Shayk down the runway after alighting a UFO whilst singing 'Fly me too the Moon' is definitely the most unexpected thing to happen at Fashion Week. This show was not my favourite show fashion-wise, but the theatrics are by far the most entertaining. coco_pinkprincess7 year-old fashion lover Coco, lives in Japan. She got her interests in fashion from her parents who own a vintage fashion boutique in Tokyo, called Funtique. Her style is off-beat and combination of styles. I first found out about her on youtube, VICE created a video about her and her style. I love her sassy poses and how unapolagetically cool she is. From growing up in Harajuku, where street style is extravagant, eccentric and stylised, her fashion sense may be out-there and fun for us, but for her, she sees it everyday. Her instagram now has 480k followers. Follow @coco_pinkprincess for more. [all images from @coco_pinkprincess] lukasabbatLuka Sabbat is a "Stylist, Creative Director, Design Director, Actor, Model" as he says on his website, although he doesn't like to define what he does through labels he simply thinks of himself as a "creative entrepreneur". I came across Luka's instagram account years ago and fell in love with his style. Again, he puts his own twist on his streetwear, combining statement pieces whether it be, an oversized coat or some amazing YSL heeled boots or Snakeskin cowboy boots. I love the variation of casual trackies to smart undone shirts. He also makes other creative content with photographer, Noah Dillon on a photographic collaboration called HOTMESS, which you can check out online and on instagram. He is now also starring in the Blackish spin off Grownish, that I can't wait to watch when it airs in the UK. So if you are into his kind of style follow @lukasabbat for more. [all images from @lukasabbat] lucywilliams02Lucy Williams runs her own blog called Fashion Me Now, where she posts about beauty, fashion, travel, life and inspiration. I really appreciate her style, it's pretty and feminine with a boyish flair. I also really like the personality she gives off in her captions, blog posts and YouTube videos. She currently has a really beautiful collection with Missoma the jewellery brand. She keeps away from your typical mainstream blogger and I really like that about her, so check her out at @lucywilliams02 [all images from @lucywilliams02] danixmichelleDani Michelle, is a stylist. I am currently in love with Kourtney Kardashian's style at the moment and wanted to find the stylist responsible, and so I did. Dani Michelle is Kourtney Kardashian's stylist and the woman behind her amazing looks. On her instagram she uploads pictures of Kourtney wearing her outfits and tags all the designers and brands she's wearing. I really love the vision she has for Kourtney's streetwear especially. Follow @danixmichelle for more. [all images from @danixmichelle]
On the American West Coast lies many fashion gems. These brands make me want to dress up, and go out. Make bold statements with little effort. Check out Réalisation Par, I.AM.GIA, LOQ and STAUD. Réalisation Par..."Each Réalisation piece is meant to be an individual addition to your own personal style." Flirty, floral, fun and flowing. Little ruffles, peplum sleeves and tie up tops. Keeping it cute in the day and dressing it up at night. Versatile garments for anyone. "It is our desire, ultimately, to give you the confidence to wear it." I.AM.GIA...Edgy. Bold. Boyish. Bad. Motorcyclist/ Kill Bill/ Ski Vibes. Chunky Trousers and Tiny Tops. Leather, PVC and Patterns. Go girly, or get masculine. LOQ..."Unconventional forms, proportions, materials and attention to detail." "LOQ fuses California's relaxed sensibility with the rich colours and textures of India." Patent, Leather and Suede. From Slip ons to Tie Ups, their range of shoes are curious, and contemporary. STAUD...Innovative. Contemporary. Modern Classics. Croc, Velvet and Net Bags. "Stunning but simple, unique but uncomplicated" Beautiful bags for all your belongings. x [Photos from the respective websites and edited by me]
An i-D article wrote about the MacArthur report; "A New Textiles Economy: Redesigning Fashion's Future". The report states the huge and catastrophic implications that textiles production has on the environment and society, today and in the future. I have always been aware of the negative impact the fashion industry and in particular the fast-fashion industry has had on the environment. However, even for someone who learns about these issues, the figures have still shocked me. I have briefly written about the current situation and the plan for turning the system around, if you want to read it in more detail, I have linked the report above. The textile industry contributes, 1.2 billion This is greater than the combined contribution from international flights and maritime shipping. The current system causes half a million tonnes of plastic microfibre to be released, thats 16x more than the micro-beads produced in the cosmetics industry! The textile industry is worth a huge $1.3 The textile industry is valuable globally, with over 300 million people employed across the supply chain. However, "it is estimated that more than half of fast fashion produced is disposed of in under a year." In the last 15 years, the number of times a garment is worn has decreased by 36%. "More than USD 500 billion of value is lost every year due to clothing underutilisation and the lack of recycling". This "take-make-dispose" society that we live in today is causing consumers to lose 460 billion USD of value globally, each year by prematurely throwing away clothes. Textile production relies on 98 million Many countries have good clothing collection systems. For example, Germany collects 75% of textiles. However, a lot of that clothing is then exported to countries that haven't established clothing collection services, so is then disposed of as waste. The New Approach:A Circular Economy. " A new textiles economy produces and provides access to high-quality, affordable, individualised clothing. A new textiles economy captures the full value of clothing during and after use. A new textiles economy runs on renewable energy and uses renewable resources where resource input is needed. A new textiles economy reflects the true cost (environmental and societal) of materials and production processes in the price of products. A new textiles economy regenerates natural systems and does not pollute the environment. A new textiles economy is distributive by design. " " The Benefits for Businesses and the Economy:
Environmental Benefits:
Benefits for Citizens and Society:
Even though the issues that are addressed in this report are mainly of the concern of businesses and manufacturers, we can also help to reduce our impact on the environment. In the words of Vivienne Westwood "Buy Less, Choose Well, Make it Last". x Source: Ellen MacArthur Foundation, 2016. The New Textiles Economy: Redesigning Fashion's Future.
There is a large hole in my heart that is reserved for these Aussie brands, even though I have not personally tried them, they are constantly featured on Australian It-Girls' Instagrams. I hope one day my bank account will allow for my wardrobe to be filled with pieces from these labels, but for now I will have to admire from afar. SENSOSenso produce, high quality, contemporary footwear. I originally founded this brand through @mimielashiry, as I did for all of these brands. She posted a photo wearing white slip on trainers that caught my eye. I looked on their Instagram and website to see what else they had to offer and knew that I had to own something, one day. I was recently reminded of this brand by another one of Mimi's posts. She was wearing the green mules, paired with a blue top and skirt. The oversized buckle caught my eye and I thought, if I can't buy them I would write about them. SIR The LabelSIR The Label is a women's contemporary fashion brand, they design garments that are 'confident, distinctive and versatile'. Their clothing makes me miss the sun and the sea; the light, flowing look of the colours and form of the garments are so elegant and pretty. Hansen & GretelHansen & Gretel merge 'traditional and modern' to create 'an affordable-chic collection with a dash of avant-garde appeal' I have selected some of my favourite finds. The shapes of the garments, the patterns and the techniques they use, create effortlessly cool garments. [All photographs were obtained from the respective websites and edited by myself]
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AuthorHannah Foxley, Fashion Marketing and Branding student. Archives
October 2018
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